SovietCity Blog..

Russian Train Guide

 

Basics

Russian trains can be 1st 2nd or 3rd class.

You can buy tickets at train stations, Russian travel agencies, airports or even online.  The ticketing system is electronic so it doesnt really matter where you buy the ticket.  You need to show your passport when buying train tickets in Russia.  If you buy your ticket online you will still need to go to a ticket desk in the station to exchange your email confirmation printout for a real ticket.  When you board the train you need to show your ticket and passport to the conductor.

 

 

 

1st class (known in Russia as esve or Спальный вагон ( spalyny wagon – literally sleeping wagon) is very very nice.  There are only 2 bunks in the compartment, one on each side, there is lots of space and the wagos has a well appointed clean interior.  When I went 1st class we had a flatscreen TV on the wall and were offered a choice of food for the complimentary meal.  Its almost like being in a hotel room on wheels.  Unfortunately, 1st class is becoming rather expensive.

2nd class( Купе – pronounced Koopay) is reasonably comfortable.  There are now 4 bunks in the compartment, two upper and two lower, no TV and no free food.  The corridor,(as in 1st class) is just a corridor, there are no bunks there.  Expect to pay about half the price of 1st class for a 2nd class ticket.

3rd class (Плацкарт – pronounced Platskart) – literally place in cattle wagon !  Oh dear. Life is rather more cramped and uncomfortable in 3rd class.  Again there are four bunks in the main compartment but now the corridor space is halved and a pair of bunks are jammed lengthways all the way along the wagon, making six to a compartment.  Welcome to hell.  There are no doors in 3rd class, so privacy and security are purely notional.  If you have ever wished to experience life on a Russian submarine then you will be happy in Platskart !

In the UK train journeys are quite short, a few hours at most.  In Russia, the biggest country in the world, distances are vast, and getting from Moscow to Vladivostock can take a week or more.  Staying on a train for such a long time requires a little planning, preparation and little local knowledge which can make your stay more comfortable.

There are certain unwritten rules and customs regarding train travel in Russia, as a foreigner you might not know these.

On a long or overnight trip Russians like to change out of their usual business/city clothes into casual comfortable light clothes.  Clothes such as slippers,shorts, sports trousers and tshirts.  It’s just more comfortable for  ride that could be anything from a few hours to a week or so long.  The trains are so well heated that you wont be cold, even in the depths of Russian winter.

Women might sometimes request that the men leave the compartment for a few minutes so that they can change clothes.  You could also try to get changed in the toilet, although this can be tricky, especially once the train has been moving a few hours and the toilet becomes very dirty.

Soviet City advice – If you are travelling on a Russian train for more than a few hours bring slippers, light loose fitting sports clothes such as t-shirt, joggings pants etc.  It will be more comfortable and you will then be able to change back into usual clothes before you arrive.  Also  take a washbag, facial cleansing wipes, toothbrush, electric shaver, comb, brush and any toiletries you might need.  Bring bottles of water, noodles, bread,cheese,meat, sachets of coffee AND your own supply of toilet paper. There may be NO toilet paper in the toilets.

 

 

Train Security

 

All long distance trains will have a policeman or guard onboard and he will be armed.  They occasionally wander up and down the length of the train to check everything is OK and they will be called if there are any serious problems onboard.

In 1st and 2nd class it is possible to lock the door, there is also a piece of metal that can be pulled out to jam the door shut for extra security.  If you are really paranoid you could use cord/string to tie the door handle together.

In 3rd class there are NO doors ! Its completely open.  The only door you will have is the toilet door !  Your happiness and security depends on the sobriety and character of your many new Russian friends.  As a foreigner, expect people to just stare at you for hours.  Just be nice, smile back and remember you are a guest in their country.

Many Russians, especially if they are not from Moscow or St Petersburg, may have never seen or spoken to a foreigner in their life, so expect a little attention.

I travelled thousand of kilometres backwards and forwards across Russia and never had a problem on the train.  I would rate security as reasonable although it is sensible to take a few precautions. Luggage can be stowed in a small metal compartment underneath the bottom bunks, the bunks hinge upwards to allow access.  If your sitting or sleeping on the bottom bunk then the safest place for your money and documents is obviously in the metal box underneath your bunk inside your suitcase or rucksack.

If you are in the upper bunks then you might be able to squeeze your bag under the bottom bunk, or alternatively you can make use of the upper storage spaces although these are open and dont have a lid or door to protect them.

If you are travelling alone then you should take care when going to the toilet or restaurant car.  Use a moneybelt and also consider splitting any cash into seperate bundles ie one in your moneybelt, one in your suitcase etc.  If you have more than one credit or debit card then consider splitting these into different locations as well.

 

Life on the Train

Once evening arrives people will start to make their bed.  Russian trains usually provide clean sheets, a mattress cover and a clean pillowcase cover.  You can also ask the conductor for a cup and spoon for coffee/tea, and also buy tea/coffee from them.

Hot water is provided by a large metal samovar which usually sits near the conductors compartment.  You just pull a lever and out comes scaldingly hot water.  The samovar is free, so bring your own teabags, sachets of coffee, sugar,milk.   I usually buy the 3 in 1 sachets of coffee that can be found in any Russian food shop.  Take care with the samovar, the water is  amazingly hot !

Popular foods for the train include kalbasa (sausage meat- as smelly as possible), lapshoo (noodles), sandwiches and beer for the evening.

Train toilets are often locked during the first and last hour of the journey, and can also be locked when the train approaches or stops at stations along the route.  So make sure that you visit the toilet early enough before you get off at your final stop !

Train Stops

Intercity trains usually have a timetable of stops printed on the corridor wall.  If not then ask the conductor about stops.

Trains often make numerous short stops on long journeys, sometimes for 10-30 minutes each time.

It’s possible to get off the train at these stops in order to buy food or beer from the local sellers who line the platforms at all times of day and night.

You will be amazed and surprised at the choice of variety of goods available on the platform.

Even if your train stops in the middle of Siberia at 3am in a -40C snowstorm there will still be dozens of people lining the platform trying to get your attention.

You can buy food, beer, water, juice, fresh fish, sandwiches, souvenirs, toys, clothes !

The conductor for each wagon gets off the train at these stops and carefully guards the train door.

Make sure that she knows that you have got off the train, and also dont wander off too far.

The train WILL NOT wait for you, so don’t go into the station or out of sight of the conductor.

You really don’t want to be left behind !

Enjoy your journey !

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